John & Marion At Large

Thursday, February 15, 2007

Darling

On our way back to Cape Town and the UK we decided to go inland, slightly off the tourist route to a farming village called Darling. We thought it was a really good choice for St Valentine’s Day.

We had breakfast in the centre of this bustling busy village and really enjoyed watching the world go by. We came back later for a beer. Very refreshing!

The next morning we set off in search of the Coof vineyard. We had tried their Dusty Road Cabernet Sauvignon in a restaurant as it was very good; we wanted to sample some of their other wines. On the way we tried other wineries but preferred the Coof.

The vineyard owned by an Englishman who visits once a year for a month is very well cared for and looks stunning.

We sampled a fair number of their wines and actually bought a couple of bottles to bring home. Eventually, we asked about having lunch in the gardens and were delighted to see a table set out for us under a trailing Wisteria.

The view from our table was “To die for”

The lunch and wine were great and we were joined by a number of spectacular birds and one very timid field mouse.

Luckily we found out that some of this lovely wine is sent to the UK. We hope to track some down when we get back.

This is really our last day at large as tomorrow we head back to Cape Town and get ready for a very early flight to the UK. As you can tell we have had a wonderful time, have met loads of wonderful people and have received lots of messages from friends all around the world. We look forward to meeting you all again, soon.

Liz has just sent us an email with a picture of Reading under inches of snow and their neighbour built an igloo. What a time to go back to the UK!!!

Saldanha

Further north still is the working seaside town of Saldanha, a working town with a steel works as well as a fishing industry, a military base as well as catering for tourists.

We found an Hotel, right on the beach, complete with a visiting, rugby team.

The view from our balcony was lovely and we saw a Little Egret fishing on the water’s edge just as they do in Millbrook.

A few feet from the shore we noticed a number of fish which reminded us of the Bat Rays we had seen in Australia. They sting so no swimming just there.

As we explored the harbour area we noticed some divers at work under a fishing boat.


Our curiosity being aroused we watched as the boat was winched out of the water for its annual certification test.

The whole process took only a few minutes and 430 tonnes of boat was high and dry and safely ashore.

Yzerfontein

From Bloubergstrand we travelled further north up the west coast to Yzerfontein.

We decided to stay with the Walter family who run a B & B with spectacular views.

This was our room.

And this was our view, which was so good that on our first day, we walked down to the shore and saw a pod of whales playing just off the shore. Sadly no camera!!!!!!!

The neighbours are very friendly and this Mongoose didn’t mind being photographed at all.

On our second day we went to the West Coast Nature Reserve, trekked miles to the purpose built hides, but saw nothing but seagulls!

We did see a pair of falcons hunting just off the road and having watched them for a while even managed to get a picture of one.

To revive our spirits we sought out a pancake shop and soon felt much better.

On the way back we walked on one of the many glorious beaches in the area

and were joined by a flock of Sacred Ibis.

All in all a good day.

Friday, February 09, 2007

Bloubergstrand

After a few days on the Cape Point peninsula, we have decided to head north of Cape Town to a coastal region where we were told,
"But there is nothing there!"
We found an amazing coastline with beautiful white sandy beaches that are brilliant for walking and paddling. Our first hotel, the Blue Peter has excellent views, rooms and restaurant.

It has amazing views of Table Mountain. Robben Island and the coast north.

It is a poplar beach for surfers of all kinds, these guys were still surfing when we were getting ready for dinner!

The plan here is to walk, read and relax and then heading even further north.


Tuesday, February 06, 2007

The Cape to Simon's Town

We are going walkabout again, south from Cape Town to the Cape of Good Hope and then back up the cape to Simon’s Town, home of the South African Navy.

The Cape of Good Hope is not the most southerly part of Africa, but the most south westerly. After a long drive it was a bit of an anti climax, but we found some Japanese photographers to record the moment for us, and we did the same for them of course.

The cape looks more impressive from the lighthouse station on the next headland.

Here we discovered we were 9623 km from London and more importantly about the same distance from Cornwall.

From the Cape, we ore off in search of a bed for the night, hopefully in Simon’s Town, but on the way are diverted by some not too friendly natives.


They look cuddly but can bite, apparently! I took no chances!!!
Far more cuddly are the African Penguins of Boulder Bay, who don't seem to mind how close you get.
In Simon’s Town we found an idyllic hotel, The British Hotel,


that dated back to the days of the East India Company, a beautifully, tranquil and shady spot from which to explore.

The town itself is a strange mix of normal and touristy shops, but the buildings are definitely from a bygone age.
Especially the police station, I don’t think this is a high crime rate area!
The bay and the beach look beautiful

And there are so many good looking restaurants that I’m sure we will enjoy our stay here.

I am even enjoying working on the blog in our own quiet, cool courtyard.


Table Mountain

Table Mountain stands guard over Cape Town and is visible from most parts of the city. While we were in Gordon’s Bay we frequently looked across False Bay and saw the mountain covered with a long white cloud, known locally as the Tablecloth. While we were in the city the Tablecloth was not to be seen, so we headed off to the cable car station. We could have walked but decided it was too hot!

I was particularly looking forward to the rotating cable cars, although to be more accurate, it is the floor that rotates, so that everyone gets a view from every angle.

At the top, the views are impressive

This is the Lion’s Head, with its tail lying behind. Cape Town nestles around the hill and in the distance you can just make out Robben Island.

The area at the top is huge, spreading from the cable station to the gorge about a third of the way along.

If you click on this picture you can just see the gorge a third of the way from the top right.

The walkers, walk up and down the mountain through this gorge and that is a very long, tiring walk at 30˚C in the shade.

The footpath is just visible between the rocks.

The mountain has more plant species than the UK and although we did not see them all we saw some beautiful fauna and flora.

This bird has the most beautiful brown marking on its wings, but they don’t stay still for long and this sadly is my best shot.


Just as we were about to leave, a small cloud rolled up the mountain and away, a beautiful view at the end of our stay.

Robben Island

No stay in Cape Town could be complete without a visit to Robben Island, for seventeen years the “home” of Nelson Mandela, the first president of the new SA.

The island is twelve kilometres from the mainland and only thirty metres high.

From the island Cape Town appears a long way off.

From the ferry, it appears very vulnerable to the bad weather roaring in from the South Pole. At the dock, the first view of the prison block is even worse.

The buildings were built by the prisoners, using materials they quarried themselves. The regime was obviously harsh

but the ex political prisoner who showed our group around referred continually to the prisoners’ indefatigable spirit of endurance and confidence in their eventual victory.

This was helped by the support they received from international organisations, crusading individuals and some governments.

Most of the buildings were effectively designed to be depressing but Nelson Mandela’s old and new accommodations were an optimistic sign that might is not always right.

His home for seventeen years?

His home when he visits now.

The island tours are organised to show that determined people can achieve their dreams. The histories and the buildings convey this superbly and the island is well worth the visit. No reasonable person was disappointed when the last prisoners left in 1991.

Robben Island is now inhabited by the people who work on there and some other well adjusted Africans.

A secluded but shady spot for an individual,

While the rest of the gang head for the beach,

and others rush nowhere at all.

Although enjoyable it was good to be able to leave and also to receive a welcoming wave from an old friend.